Six essential Lucerne experiences

Destination

Chris Dwyer

October 1, 2022

A true lakeside jewel, the historic city of Lucerne sits in the geographical heart of Switzerland and dazzles with picture-perfect views of snow-capped mountains, laidback local life and a thriving arts scene. Here are six quintessential experiences for every type of traveller.

Get out on the water

Even in a country famed for its lakes, few Swiss cities can match Lucerne when it comes to getting out on the water. The shoreline is filled with parks, lidos and beaches in which to enjoy its beauty and stillness – or maybe kick back with a sundowner in resorts and pop-up bars that open through the summer. Canoes and kayaks let you power yourself over the emerald-green water, while sailing classes, fishing trips and even diving – at least in summer – show why the lake is beloved by locals and visitors alike when it comes to getting active. While it’s possible to circumnavigate Switzerland’s fourth largest lake by rail or road, obviously you’re going to want to explore its inlets, bays and take in the truly majestic mountains that line it. Take your pick from a number of vessels, but we love the stately Steamboat Uri, Switzerland’s oldest paddle steamer, which gently pootles along the river beneath the majestic 7,000ft Mount Pilatus.

Cross the iconic Chapel Bridge

This picturesque covered footbridge dates back to the mid-14th century and weaves its way across the River Reuss. Named after the nearby St Peter’s Chapel, it’s the oldest wooden covered bridge in Europe and boasts a remarkable feature in the form of more than 30 paintings by 17th-century local artist Hans Heinrich Wägmann, depicting events from Lucerne’s storied history. A key feature is the 113ft high octagonal water tower, or Wasserturm, which predates the bridge and has served as a prison, treasury, archive and even a torture chamber. Its length decked in flowers, Chapel Bridge is Lucerne’s pre-eminent attraction and one of Switzerland’s most famed sights, the perfect way to cross from one side of the city to the other.

Walk the ramparts

Another must-visit while in Lucerne is the medieval beauty of the Musegg Wall, nine 14th-century towers linked by ramparts that used to protect the town back in the day when visitors weren’t always very friendly. The remarkably well-preserved fortifications provide fascinating insights into old Lucerne in their own right, but many visitors climb them to enjoy stellar views of the rooftops and spires below, the Reuss river, the placid beauty of Lake Lucerne and the breathtaking mountains beyond. The towers continue to serve as a reminder of Lucerne’s power, status and wealth in the Middle Ages and four of them can be entered and visited from April through November.

Go crazy for chocolate

How can you visit Switzerland and not indulge in chocolate? Happily, Lucerne has plenty of the sweet stuff, especially at the city’s most famous producer, Confiseur Bachmann. It has been crafting deliciousness for 125 years, from bread to pastries and cakes – notably Lucerne gingerbread cake – and candies to some of the world’s most irresistible chocolates. The star draw and Instagram favourite in its main shop is its incredible flowing chocolate wall, which features 750kg of liquid chocolate. Another slice of chocolate heaven comes, intriguingly, at Lucerne’s Swiss Museum of Transport, whose Swiss Chocolate Adventure is a 30-minute immersion in its history, provenance and manufacturing. And yes, rest assured that you do get a chance to taste examples at the end of the tour.

Wander the old town streets

Lucerne’s remarkably preserved old town or Altstadt lies largely between the City Hall and Chapel Bridge, parallel to the river Reuss. One tip is to look up at the historic houses adorned with frescos, which reveal much about the trades and people that helped to make the city we see today. Weinmarkt was a former fish market featuring a beautiful fountain, while Mühlenplatz dates from the Middle Ages and is Lucerne’s largest historic square. Unique and quirky design touches abound through the old town, including an ornate carved sign of a pretzel to show the former home of a bakery guild. It sits above a restaurant, one of many on the waterside offering dishes with a side order of great views of Chapel Bridge. One local must-order is the difficult to pronounce but utterly delicious Luzerner Chügelipastete. Think an oversized vol-au-vent of flaky pastry filled with veal, sweetbread, sausage and mushrooms in a creamy saffron sauce.

Indulge in the arts

Lucerne is blessed with multiple venues for enjoying the arts, starting with a modern lakeside architectural marvel, the Culture and Convention Centre. Known locally as KKL, it plays host to some of the world’s finest classical musicians and conductors and features venues including a stunning 1,840-seater concert hall, renowned for its exceptional acoustics. Amidst many stellar art galleries and museums around the city, The Rosengart Collection wows with works by the greatest names in 19th- and 20th-century art. From Renoir to Matisse and Monet, Picasso to Kandinsky and Klee, the pieces on show reflect the extraordinary eye and generosity of Siegfried and Angela Rosengart. In 1978 to mark the city’s 800th anniversary, they donated eight masterpieces by Picasso to the City of Lucerne, laying the foundations for the collection that carries their name to this day.

Discover lakeside living at Mandarin Oriental Palace, Luzern

Chris Dwyer

Chris Dwyer writes on food and travel for CNN, the BBC, Travel + Leisure and more.